News & Updates

            HOW TO TAME YOUR DRAGON

                                                   by Carl 

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This article deals primarily with the DF95 on Brightlingsea Boating Lake and is my opinion

only. There are as many opinions as there are Dragon sailors. Some right, some wrong?

Who knows? Preferences may differ, as may conditions elsewhere. The following is purely

what works for me.

BUILD

Not too many options here. Don't believe the build time. It will take all day, if you’re quick!

Buy and apply the keel patch from RC Yachts before you start. Dip the ends of the rigging

twine in Superglue and cut to a point to thread it through bowsies, etc. Secure all knots with

a blob of Superglue. The instructions are very good. The only deviation everybody makes is

moving the mast to the fully aft position. Screw the keel together with some Loctite 270 on

the bolts but DO NOT overtighten the keel/deck bolt, you’ll crack the hull. The main boom

bearings supplied are useless. Not stainless steel at all and will soon rust and seize. I

replace them from the start with hybrid stainless/Teflon bearings from Race Pace Bearings

(Part No. ABEC7 B106RS). Likewise, the plastic rudder bearings don’t last long, leaving you

with a wobbly rudder. I drill these out during the build and insert a 4 x 20mm brass sleeve

instead (now allowed by DF95 rules).

SET-UP

Use the measurements in the manual for mast rake and backstay adjustment (1135 and

1090). After that I use a 30mm gap between sail foot and booms. 70mm from centreline of

mast to mid leech (back ) of jib when sheeted in. 60mm from backstay to end of middle

batten on the main, increasing to 70+ as wind increases. You know if it’s right if you can sail

upwind no hands. Mainsail downhaul should be just tight enough to take up slack. End of

jib boom should be over the inner edge of the angled side deck and main boom pointing at

the corner of aft deck recess when sheeted in. This is where it’s absolutely essential to

make sure the mainsheet bridle is centered. Any misalignment here will translate into a

massive difference at the end of the boom, usually manifested as different steering

balance on port/starboard tack. The forward facing part of the bridle doesn’t really

contribute much, apart from breaking it’s plastic bracket when you gybe. I leave it loose. I

run the elastic tensioner and jib sheet directly from the deck eye to the control line clip as

per the instructional drawing. Some run them through the port side deck eye to keep them

clear of the mast. It avoids wear on the elastic if you go direct and prevents the jib and main

fighting against each other when fully out. You have to try it to see what I mean. Use a 6

volt 1600mah 5 cell humpback NiMh battery, they fit perfectly. Avoid Lipo batteries, unless

playing with explosives is your thing. If you have a programmable transmitter set 40% expoon your rudder channel (ensure you get this right, negative for Flysky and Futaba). The stick

on hatch cover is only good for a couple of outings. I tape over the entire hatch every time

with new Fixman All Weather clear tape. Much cheaper than replacing electrical bits.

Lastly, check the rudder is exactly centered. It might not be! Get it as near as possible using

the adjustment on the servo rod, then wiggle it about and do the final bit with the trim

switch on your transmitter. Usually rudder goes on channel 1, sail winch on channel 3.

Standard convention is right stick for right/left (port/starboard) and left stick up for sails out

and down for sails in. Best to stick with this in case anyone else ever has to take control.

SAILING

In my opinion Dragons do not sail well with everything tightened in. They go much better

sailing a bit loose and free. In addition to the settings mentioned above I’ll still sail with a

couple of clicks of mainsheet out when going upwind in light airs. Put some BG Sails tell

tales on the jib and become obsessive about keeping them flying straight. It’s the only way

to trim/ steer accurately. Can’t keep the jib goosewinged? Steer into wind a bit (away from

main boom side). Weird I know, but the wind comes round behind the mainsail and flicks it

out. Try it. Downwind in a blow they can be lively (this is where the expo helps). It’s often

easier and quicker to go downwind in a series of very broad reaches to avoid nosediving. I

personally don’t use the B rig at Brightlingsea as you will always lose out in the sheltered

bits. I prefer to detune the rig with a bit more twist in the sails (slight tweak on the backstay)

and go for it (although not the most seamanlike approach, I know).

MAINTENANCE

Wash down with fresh water after every sail (not forgetting the sails if they’re wet).

Dry off, then come back later to paint some WD40 onto main boom bearings, vang

mechanism, aft control line block and rudder linkage with a small modelling brush. Check

backstay off, plug out and no water inside, battery out and on charge. Support the keel

underneath to take the weight off the hull. I leave the boat stored with the hatch off to dry

out any moisture.

Spares from RC Yachts

Stands and rig bags from Potter Solutions

Sails & Decal sets from Soch Sails

Happy Sailing

St. George